![]() ![]() * If it turns out that you need to remove the faceplate (but you may not have to), then you might also need a very small allen wrench or jeweler's screwdriver to remove the tiny set-screws that are sometimes used to secure larger knobs and maybe two rounded-bottomed spoons (regular kitchen spoons) to pry up knobs that are stuck tightly on the shafts, along with some cardboard, cloth or leather scraps to protect the faceplate while doing this.ġ. If you buy one of the DeOxit kits that comes with some little things like these, then that's all you'll need. * Either a little mascara brush (or two) or a couple pipe cleaners and/or some Q-tips (the kind that don't come apart easily). ![]() *A DeOxit kit, with both spray can (with little red straw) and little bottle of red DeOxit, and the same for the yellowish DeOxit Gold (formerly called ProLube). *A screwdriver or two that will fit the screws holding on the covers. You might want to print this out on paper and read it through once or twice before beginning, perhaps even keeping it beside you as you do the work, and checking off the steps as you go. It's really pretty easy to do, if you can just use a screwdriver to unscrew (and screw back in) a screw, and point a spraycan, turn a knob back-and-forth, and wiggle a little Q-tip or mascara brush!Īlthough all this is a simple enough thing to do in real life, all written out in detail like this it gets a bit long. Basically, you need to unscrew the top and bottom covers, and PERHAPS (but often not) remove the front faceplate. You don't need to know much about electronics, nor do you need to take much apart, to use DeOxit correctly on 90+ percent of receivers and other vintage gear. I'd like to add pics to it, but that will take a lot of time, so for now, with just a few minor changes from the original, here is re-presented.Īrkay's "Idiot's Guide" (because it takes one to know one. While reluctant to re-post anything already in the archives (and thus risk wasting AK's precious memory space), I decided that with just a bit of modification, maybe it can help some of the many newbies here who ask periodically (and repeatedly) about DeOxit and how to use it. It is very difficult to find a vintage equipment nowadays that's in prime condition nowadays and I really need it to run 100% because I have a full blown analog recording station.I received a message recently from a fellow AKer, asking me to re-post this semi-ancient post that has been long buried in the archives. Most of my gears are over 30 years old and bought most of then at that time especially the cassette decks, expanders and EQ's. or atleast you can follow up later on with deoxite if you don't have any right now. The right way to do it, air clean first, cleaner then right after it dries up follow then with deoxite just give it a few droplets, Bingo that can last 10 years. The closest one that you can get here that's Ive tried is a sprayon 2020 and I believe I've tried crc blue before (very shortly) that's pretty good and safe too. It is very difficult to find a vintage equipment nowadays that's in prime condition nowadays and I really need it to run 100% because I have a full blown analog recording station. Most of my gears are over 30 years old and bought most of them at that time especially the cassette decks, expanders and EQ's. or atleast you can follow up later on with deoxite if you want or don't have any right now. ![]() ![]() Some of those gears are self lubricating and its really important to pay attention in details. The reason why, there there are some plastic gear parts that are silicone based and some expensive plastic like acetal that you don't want to dehydrate and crack in time. This is really good and very safe for plastics. The one that I been using for decades is not even available in the US but if you want to know its called spra-kleen contact cleaner. ![]()
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